Minimum 04 climbers – Ask here if there is anyone interested already
This Peruvian combo starts at Urus 5450m, Ishinca 5530m, Tocllaraju 6032m and finally Alpamayo 5947m.
We assure the fun and brilliant climbing during these extreme 19 days at the Cordillera Blanca in Peru. Most climbers go to Peru because of majestic mountains like Alpamayo and this is maybe why you are here. Climbing Alpamayo via the French direct route is not an easy task. This is why we have designed the 19-day itinerary with 3 extra beautiful summits to make sure you are fully acclimatised and fully trained with the necessary techniques to climb Alpamayo.
Requirements to join this expedition are:
Day 1 – Arrive in Lima and bus to Huaraz
We’ll pick you up at the airport and drive you to Huaraz. The journey takes 8 hrs approximately. We usually leave after lunch and arrive at night. If you arrive in Lima is in the afternoon, you’ll have to take a night bus and arrive in Huaraz early.
Day 2 – Acclimatisation at Churup Lake 4450m
After a short drive, we’ll trek to Churup Lake, it’s a good full day of hiking. This will really help on our acclimatisation. We’ll also spend part of the day organizing logistics, porters, and transport for the next days. You’ll spend the night in Huaraz.
Day 3 – Huaraz – Ishinca Basecamp – 4350m
After a 90 minute drive from Huaraz to Collon or Pashpa (3400m) we’ll trek to Ishinca BC for about 4 to 5 hours.
Day 4 – Summit of Urus – 5450m
A very quiet and relaxed ascent to the summit of Urus. We’ll use it as acclimatisation. The climb might take about 4 hours. We’ll then return to Basecamp.
Day 5 – Summit of Ishinca – 5530m
A slightly more technical ascent this time and a little higher. Depending on the ice conditions, the climb might take between 9 to 12 hours. Sometimes there are a few technical steps. Last year the main one had 20 metres and we overcame it easily.
Day 6 – Rest at Basecamp – 4350m
A well-deserved rest at BC after summiting 2 x 5000ers
Day 7 – Climb to Tocllaraju high camp – 5300m
We’ll climb for 3 to 4 hours to Tocllaraju’s high camp. It is at a moraine zone.
Day 8 – Tocllaraju Summit – 6032m
We’ll start the ascent very early. The route has some almost flat slopes of snow, big crevasses, snow bridges and some steep climbs. The steeper slope might reach 70 degrees. There is a 65 metre climb under the summit and it can be a little exposed. The climb might take between 12 and 14 hours. We’ll return to Ishinca’s base camp after the summit.
Day 9 – Ishinca BC – Huaraz – 3050m
It’s a 3-hour trek to descent to the point we’ll have a driver waiting to drive us to Huaraz.
Day 10 – Rest day at Huaraz – 3050m
Day 11 – Huaraz – Llamacorral – 3760m
Our private transportation will pick us up at 8am from Huaraz and drive us to Cashapampa at 2900m where the donkies and arriero will be waiting to carry the equipment to Llamacorral camp. It’s about a 5 hours hike.
Day 12 – Llamacorral – Alpamayo BC – 4600m
Approximately a 6 hour walk to Alpamayo BC. The trek goes by beautiful lakes.
Day 13 – Alpamayo BC – Moraine camp – 4950m
3 to 4 hour walk between BC and Alpamayo’s moraine’s camp.
Day 14 – Moraine camp – High camp – 5500m
4 to 5 hours scramble to Camp 1. There might be a technical climb to get to the col at 5550m.
Day 15 – Summit of Alpamayo – 5947m
Early start and 4 to 6-hour climb to the summit of Alpamayo via the French direct route. The descent normally takes 3 to 4 hours.
Day 16 – Camp 1 – Llamacorral – 3760m
Day 17 – Llamacorral – Huaraz – 3050m
Day 18 – Huaraz – Lima
You have a free morning in Huaraz and take a night bus to Lima.
Day 19 – Flight back home
** The above itinerary is subject to change due weather conditions, performance of the group, political/administrative problems and any other events not described.
Having good mountaineering equipment is one of the key points to have a successful expedition. Please note all your personal equipment will be checked by one of our guides in the hotel. Most equipment can be purchased or rent in Huaraz.
Buff or similarQuantity: 1 or 2
To protect your face on summit pushQuantity: 1
Woollen hat or similar for cold daysQuantity: 1
UV protection goggles to be used during storms or very cold conditionsQuantity: 1 (OPTIONAL)
Sunglasses (cat 3 or 4)
With side protection to fit your faceQuantity: 1
Sunscreen and lip balm
30 FPS or moreQuantity: 1
AA or AAA batteries depending on your headtorch. Can be purchased in local store.Quantity: 1 set
Working headtorch and spare batteriesQuantity: 1
Light down jacket
Summit Down Jacket
Heavy hooded down jacket for cold conditionsQuantity: 1 (OPTIONAL)
A good snow, rain and windproof jacketQuantity: 1
Synthetic fibre long or short sleeve t-shirtQuantity: 2 or 3 long sleeve
Used alone or as part of a layer system for better performanceQuantity: 1
Light trekking pantsQuantity: 1 or 2
For snow, sand or scree terrainQuantity: 1 pair
Base layer pants
For very cold days and summit pushQuantity: 1
Goretex or similar pants will be used for high wind or during snow conditionsQuantity: 1
Fleece, polartec or similar. To be used with other layers for very cold conditionsQuantity: 1
A pair of good waterproof gloves for ice climbing with padded knucklesQuantity: 1 pair
Thick down mittens for summit pushQuantity: 1 pair (OPTIONAL)
Fleece or polartec gloves for every day useQuantity: 1 pair
Sandals or crocs
Sandals or crocs for river crossing or hanging around campQuantity: OPTIONAL
Waterproof trekking boots, try wearing them before the expeditionQuantity: 1 pair
Good thick trekking socksQuantity: 3 or 4 pairs
Thick expedition socks
For summit dayQuantity: 1 pair
A pair of double or double plastic boots such as Koflach Exped, Koflach Vertical, Asolo Ottomilla, Asolo AFS, Trezetta, Scarpa Vega, Scarpa Inferno, La Sportiva Baruntse, Olympus Mons, La Sportiva Spantik, Scarpa Phantom.
Single layer boots such as La Sportiva Nepal XT, EVO, Batura or Boreal Latok, ARE NOT SUITABLE.Quantity: 1
Technical ice axe or ice toolQuantity: 1 or pair (if you take a pair, then you don't need a piolet)
Jumar or similar of any brand. Right handed people should use a left handed ascender and vice-versa. This is because you should have your ice axe in your good handQuantity: 1
A light helmet with enough room for your clothingQuantity: 1
Normal non-locking carabinerQuantity: 3
For setting up ascenders, etcQuantity: 4 metres
A good light alpine harnessQuantity: 1
A traverse ice axe (piolet). Can be a straight tool or slightly curved.Quantity: 1 (or pair of ice tools instead)
Crampons with antibott systemQuantity: 1 pais (better to have technical crampons for Alpamayo)
Water purifying tables/drops
A reliable way to treat waterQuantity: 1 (OPTIONAL)
These gels help out on recoveryQuantity: 4
Salty snacks, sweets, etc. Any sort of tasty ready food as complement. On high altitude mountains we don’t normally worry about vitamins and proteins as these kinds of food are too hard to digest. You can buy all these in a local market.Quantity: 2kg
Stuff sacks or bin bags
Helps to keep your stuff dry and organisedQuantity: OPTIONAL
A good down sleepingQuantity: -15C (Comfort temperature)
A decent rucksack with hip belt and rain coverQuantity: 55/45 litres
Our guides already have pretty much any drugs you might need during any trip. However, it would be great if you could have a spare tab of the most used drugs:
Ibuprofen (Advil)– This is an anti-inflammatory and works great for high altitude head aches
Loperamide (Imodium) – controls diarrea (not to be used in case of digestive infections. Ask our guides)
Personal Hygiene kit
Soap, tooth brus, come, etcQuantity: 1
We prefer taking 2 foam sleeping mattress because of sharp rocks. If you have an inflatable mattress you should also bring a foam mattress to protect the inflatable one against sharp rocks. Don’t forget bringing a repair kit if you have an inflatable mattress.Quantity: 2
1 litre thermos
Metallic good quality 1 litre thermos for the summit push. You must have one. Please do not bring smaller ones.Quantity: 1
Nalgene 1 litre bottles or similar are great for expeditions! We prefer to not use camelbacks as its hose pipe might freezeQuantity: 2 x 1 litre or 3 x 600ml
Used to transport or store your equipment. In many cases, we transport your personal gear on animals and we don’t want your equipment to get wet or have mule smell…Quantity: 1
To lock your duffel during transportationQuantity: 1
Gives you more stability during walk and summit push.Quantity: 1 or pair
|English - excellent command|
|Spanish - native speaker|
Born and raised in Arequipa, Peru, Julver started mountaineering very young and made climbing his profession. He became a UIAGM guide and now works all over the planet. Julver spends the summer at the Central Andes working in Aconcagua and expedition leader and winter in Arequipa or the Cordillera Blanca leading trips on technical peaks.
An extremely experienced climber, Julver has climbed over 25 x 6000 metre peaks in Peru, Bolivia, Argentina, Ecuador and Chile. He ran Aconcagua from the road to the summit and back in just over 20 hours in 2006. Julver is an extremely easy going person and speaks excellent English.
Expedition cost is U$ 3900, contact us to know payment methods:
What is NOT included:
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