HUASCARAN, Urus, Ishinca and Tocllaraju - 19 days

About

HUASCARAN, Urus, Ishinca and Tocllaraju - May until August

Minimum 04 climbers – Ask here if there is anyone interested already

This Peruvian high combo starts at Urus 5450m, Ishinca 5530m, Tocllaraju 6032m and finally Huascaran 6768m.

To climb the highest mountain of Peru in winter you certainly need a very good acclimatisation plan in order to have a warmer ascent and a higher chance of getting to the summit. This is why we have designed a quadruple plan to get you there. Our 19-day itinerary starts with a very solid acclimatisation at the Urus/Ishinca/Tocllaraju complex which are fairly close to each other and allows great views and great climbs.

The requirements to join this expedition are:

  • International Travel Insurance
  • High altitude mountain climbing experience and basic technical skills
  • Be healthy and fit enough
  • Fill the booking and medical form
  • Read all the information availablonin this website

Itinerary

HUASCARAN, Urus, Ishinca and Tocllaraju - 19 days

Day 1 – Arrive in Lima and bus to Huaraz

We’ll pick you up at the airport and drive you to Huaraz. The journey takes 8 hrs approximately. We usually leave after lunch and arrive at night. If you arrive in Lima is in the afternoon, you’ll have to take a night bus and arrive in Huaraz early.

Day 2 – Acclimatisation at Churup Lake  4450m

After a short drive we’ll trek to Churup Lake, it’s a good full day of hiking. This will really help on our acclimatisation. We’ll also spend part of the day organizing logistics, porters, and transport for the next days. You’ll spend the night in Huaraz.

Day 3 – Huaraz – Ishinca Basecamp – 4350m

After a 90 minute drive from Huaraz to Collon or Pashpa (3400m) we’ll trek to Ishinca BC for about 4 to 5 hours.

Day 4 – Summit of Urus – 5450m

A very quiet and relaxed ascent to the summit of Urus. We’ll use it as acclimatisation. The climb might take about 4 hours. We’ll then return to Basecamp.

Day 5 – Summit of Ishinca – 5530m

A slightly more technical ascent this time and a little higher. Depending on the ice conditions, the climb might take between 9 to 12 hours. Sometimes there are a few technical steps. Last year the main one had 20 metres and we overcame it easily.

Day 6 – Rest at Basecamp – 4350m

A well-deserved rest at BC after summiting 2 x 5000ers

Day 7 – Climb to Tocllaraju high camp – 5300m

We’ll climb for 3 to 4 hours to Tocllaraju’s high camp. It is at a moraine zone.

Day 8 – Tocllaraju Summit – 6032m

We’ll start the ascent very early. The route has some almost flat slopes of snow, big crevasses, snow bridges and some steep climbs. The steeper slope might reach 70 degrees. There is a 65 metre climb under the summit and it can be a little exposed. The climb might take between 12 and 14 hours. We’ll return to Ishinca’s base camp after the summit.

Day 9 – Ishinca BC – Huaraz – 3050m

It’s a 3-hour trek to descent to the point we’ll have a driver waiting to drive us to Huaraz.

Day 10 – Rest day at Huaraz – 3050m

Day 11 – Huaraz – Huascaran BC – 4200m

Our private transportation will pick us up at 8am from Huaraz and drive us to Musho at 3000m where the donkeys and arriero will be waiting to carry the equipment to Huascaran BC camp. It’s about a 6 hours hike.

Day 12 – Huascaran BC – Moraine Camp – 4800m

Approximately a 5 hour walk to Huascaran’s moraine camp.

Day 13 – Moraine Camp – Camp 1 – 5500m

4-hour walk (part on crampons) to 5500 metres. From here on we will be on the ice.

Day 14 – Camp 1 – Camp 2 – 6000m

4 to 5 hours of walking/scrambling to the amazing camp 2 which is on the col between the north and south summit of Huascaran.

Day 15 – Summit of Huascaran – 6768m

Expect a 12-hour summit push up and down. Our departure will be very, very early morning. By avoiding crevasses and massive seracs, we’ll gain altitude slowly up to the summit. This might take us about 6 to 8 hours. The descent might take 3 to 4 hours.

Day 16 – Camp 2 – Basecamp – 4200m

Day 17 – Basecamp – Huaraz – 3050m

Day 18 – Huaraz – Lima

You have a free morning in Huaraz and take a night bus to Lima.

Day 19 – Flight back home

** The above itinerary is subject to change due weather conditions, performance of the group, political/administrative problems and any other events not described.

Equipment

Having good mountaineering equipment is one of the key points to have a successful expedition. Please note all your personal equipment will be checked by one of our guides in the hotel. Most equipment can be purchased or rent in Huaraz.

Head
  • equipamento buff

    Bandana

    Buff or similar

    Quantity: 1 or 2
  • equipamento balaclava

    Balaclava

    To protect your face on summit push

    Quantity: 1
  • gorro neblina cinza copia

    Hat

    Woollen hat or similar for cold days

    Quantity: 1
  • xNxgoggles

    Ski goggles

    UV protection goggles to be used during storms or very cold conditions

    Quantity: 1
  • xNxExplorer noir vert J

    Sunglasses (cat 3 or 4)

    With side protection to fit your face

    Quantity: 1
  • GG

    Sunscreen and lip balm

    30 FPS or more

    Quantity: 1
  • batteries

    Batteries

    AA or AAA batteries depending on your headtorch. Can be purchased in local store.

    Quantity: 1 set
  • xNxlanterna

    Headtorch

    Working headtorch and spare batteries

    Quantity: 1
Torso
  • Light down jacket

    Quantity: 1
  • pluma

    Summit Down Jacket

    Heavy hooded down jacket for cold conditions

    Quantity: 1
  • jaqueta

    Snowproof jacket

    A good snow, rain and windproof jacket

    Quantity: 1
  • camiseta dry

    T-shirt

    Synthetic fibre long or short sleeve t-shirt

    Quantity: 2 or 3 long sleeve
  • fleece

    Fleece jacket

    Used alone or as part of a layer system for better performance

    Quantity: 1
Legs
  • Caláa de Trekking

    Trekking pants

    Light trekking pants

    Quantity: 1 or 2
  • Polainas

    Gaiters

    For snow, sand or scree terrain

    Quantity: 1 pair
  • caláa segunda pele

    Base layer pants

    For very cold days and summit push

    Quantity: 1
  • Caláa anorak

    Snowproof pants

    Goretex or similar pants will be used for high wind or during snow conditions

    Quantity: 1
  • pants

    Fleece Pants

    Fleece, polartec or similar. To be used with other layers for very cold conditions

    Quantity: 1
Hands
  • Waterproof gloves

    A pair of good waterproof gloves for ice climbing with padded knuckles

    Quantity: 1 pair (OPTIONAL)
  • Screen Shot    at

    Hand warmers

    Chemical hand warmers for the summit push.

    Quantity: 1 pack
  • Miton

    Mittens

    Thick down mittens for summit push

    Quantity: 1 pair
  • Luvas segunda camada

    Gloves

    Fleece or polartec gloves for every day use

    Quantity: 1 pair
Feet
  • crocs

    Sandals or crocs

    Sandals or crocs for river crossing or hanging around camp

    Quantity: OPTIONAL
  • bota

    Trekking boots

    Waterproof trekking boots, try wearing them before the expedition

    Quantity: 1 pair
  • Meias de trekking

    Trekking socks

    Good thick trekking socks

    Quantity: 3 or 4 pairs
  • thicksocks

    Thick expedition socks

    For summit day

    Quantity: 1 pair
  • boots

    Double boots

    A pair of double or double plastic boots such as Koflach Exped, Koflach Vertical, Asolo Ottomilla, Asolo AFS, Trezetta, Scarpa Vega, Scarpa Inferno, La Sportiva Baruntse, Olympus Mons, La Sportiva Spantik, Scarpa Phantom.

    Single layer boots such as La Sportiva Nepal XT, EVO, Batura or Boreal Latok, ARE NOT SUITABLE.

    Quantity: 1 pair
Technical equipment
  • curved axe

    Ice tool

    Technical ice axe or ice tool

    Quantity: 1 or pair (if you take a pair, then you don't need a piolet)
  • helmet

    Helmet

    A light helmet with enough room for your clothing

    Quantity: 1
  • biner

    Carabiner

    Normal non-locking carabiner

    Quantity: 3
  • screw biner

    Locking carabiner

    Quantity: 2
  • Harness

    A good light alpine harness

    Quantity: 1
  • piolet

    Ice axe

    A traverse ice axe (piolet). Can be a straight tool or slightly curved.

    Quantity: 1 (or pair of ice tools instead)
  • crampon

    Crampons

    Crampons with antibott system

    Quantity: 1 pair
Other Equipment
  • tabs

    Water purifying tables/drops

    A reliable way to treat water

    Quantity: 1 (OPTIONAL)
  • gel

    Carbo gels

    These gels help out on recovery

    Quantity: 4
  • food

    Snacks

    Salty snacks, sweets, etc. Any sort of tasty ready food as complement. On high altitude mountains we don’t normally worry about vitamins and proteins as these kinds of food are too hard to digest. You can buy all these in a local market.

    Quantity: 2kg
  • estanque

    Stuff sacks or bin bags

    Helps to keep your stuff dry and organised

    Quantity: OPTIONAL
  • Saco de dormir

    Sleeping Bag

    A good down sleeping

    Quantity: -15C (Comfort temperature)
  • Rucksack

    A decent rucksack with hip belt and rain cover

    Quantity: 55/45 litres
  • meds

    Altitude medicine

    Our guides already have pretty much any drugs you might need during any trip. However, it would be great if you could have a spare tab of the most used drugs:

    Ibuprofen (Advil)– This is an anti-inflammatory and works great for high altitude head aches
    Loperamide (Imodium) – controls diarrea (not to be used in case of digestive infections. Ask our guides)

    Quantity: kit
  • kit

    Personal Hygiene kit

    Soap, tooth brus, come, etc

    Quantity: 1
  • Isolante tÇrmico

    Sleeping mattress

    We prefer taking 2 foam sleeping mattress because of sharp rocks. If you have an inflatable mattress you should also bring a foam mattress to protect the inflatable one against sharp rocks. Don’t forget bringing a repair kit if you have an inflatable mattress.

    Quantity: 2
  • flask

    1 litre thermos

    Metallic good quality 1 litre thermos for the summit push. You must have one. Please do not bring smaller ones.

    Quantity: 1
  • nalgene

    Water bottle

    Nalgene 1 litre bottles or similar are great for expeditions! We prefer to not use camelbacks as its hose pipe might freeze

    Quantity: 2 x 1 litre or 3 x 600ml
  • duffel

    Duffel Bag

    Used to transport or store your equipment. In many cases, we transport your personal gear on animals and we don’t want your equipment to get wet or have mule smell…

    Quantity: 1
  • LioFoods

    Freeze dried food

    Freeze dried or dry food for high camp

    Quantity: 1 pack (OPTIONAL)
  • cadeado

    Padlock

    To lock your duffel during transportation

    Quantity: 1
  • Bast∆o de caminhada

    Trekking poles

    Gives you more stability during walk and summit push.

    Quantity: 1 or pair

FAQ

View our photos of Julver Eguiluz:

Julver Eguiluz

Mountain guide

English - excellent command
Spanish - native speaker

Born and raised in Arequipa, Peru, Julver started mountaineering very young and made climbing his profession. He became a UIAGM guide and now works all over the planet. Julver spends the summer at the Central Andes working in Aconcagua and expedition leader and winter in Arequipa or the Cordillera Blanca leading trips on technical peaks.

An extremely experienced climber, Julver has climbed over 25 x 6000 metre peaks in Peru, Bolivia, Argentina, Ecuador and Chile. He ran Aconcagua from the road to the summit and back in just over 20 hours in 2006. Julver is an extremely easy going person and speaks excellent English.

Map

Cost

Expedition cost is U$ 3900, contact us to know payment methods:

What’s included:

  • Mountain guide ratio = 2 clients per 1 guide (UIAGM credentials);
  • Bus from Lima > Huaraz > Lima;
  • Transfer from the airport to bus station;
  • 5 hotel nights in Huaraz;
  • Porter, cooker, arrieros, donkeys;
  • Local transfers to the start of trails;
  • All meals on the mountains;
  • Dining tent and kitchen tent;
  • Personal tents (shared by 2);
  • Entry to Huascaran National Park;
  • Use of First Aid Kit;
  • Use of ropes, snow bars, and ice screws.

What is NOT included:

  • Flights to/from Peru;
  • Hotel nights in Lima;
  • Meals and drinks in Huaraz;
  • Extra hotel nights (even if is due to weather or flight cancellation);
  • Personal climbing equipment (check equipment tab);
  • Money return in case you abandon the expedition;
  • International travel insurance;
  • Reimbursement for loss or damage of your personal equipment.