Minimum 04 climbers – Ask here if there is anyone interested already
This Peruvian high combo starts at Urus 5450m, Ishinca 5530m, Tocllaraju 6032m and finally Huascaran 6768m.
To climb the highest mountain of Peru in winter you certainly need a very good acclimatisation plan in order to have a warmer ascent and a higher chance of getting to the summit. This is why we have designed a quadruple plan to get you there. Our 19-day itinerary starts with a very solid acclimatisation at the Urus/Ishinca/Tocllaraju complex which are fairly close to each other and allows great views and great climbs.
The requirements to join this expedition are:
Day 1 – Arrive in Lima and bus to Huaraz
We’ll pick you up at the airport and drive you to Huaraz. The journey takes 8 hrs approximately. We usually leave after lunch and arrive at night. If you arrive in Lima is in the afternoon, you’ll have to take a night bus and arrive in Huaraz early.
Day 2 – Acclimatisation at Churup Lake 4450m
After a short drive we’ll trek to Churup Lake, it’s a good full day of hiking. This will really help on our acclimatisation. We’ll also spend part of the day organizing logistics, porters, and transport for the next days. You’ll spend the night in Huaraz.
Day 3 – Huaraz – Ishinca Basecamp – 4350m
After a 90 minute drive from Huaraz to Collon or Pashpa (3400m) we’ll trek to Ishinca BC for about 4 to 5 hours.
Day 4 – Summit of Urus – 5450m
A very quiet and relaxed ascent to the summit of Urus. We’ll use it as acclimatisation. The climb might take about 4 hours. We’ll then return to Basecamp.
Day 5 – Summit of Ishinca – 5530m
A slightly more technical ascent this time and a little higher. Depending on the ice conditions, the climb might take between 9 to 12 hours. Sometimes there are a few technical steps. Last year the main one had 20 metres and we overcame it easily.
Day 6 – Rest at Basecamp – 4350m
A well-deserved rest at BC after summiting 2 x 5000ers
Day 7 – Climb to Tocllaraju high camp – 5300m
We’ll climb for 3 to 4 hours to Tocllaraju’s high camp. It is at a moraine zone.
Day 8 – Tocllaraju Summit – 6032m
We’ll start the ascent very early. The route has some almost flat slopes of snow, big crevasses, snow bridges and some steep climbs. The steeper slope might reach 70 degrees. There is a 65 metre climb under the summit and it can be a little exposed. The climb might take between 12 and 14 hours. We’ll return to Ishinca’s base camp after the summit.
Day 9 – Ishinca BC – Huaraz – 3050m
It’s a 3-hour trek to descent to the point we’ll have a driver waiting to drive us to Huaraz.
Day 10 – Rest day at Huaraz – 3050m
Day 11 – Huaraz – Huascaran BC – 4200m
Our private transportation will pick us up at 8am from Huaraz and drive us to Musho at 3000m where the donkeys and arriero will be waiting to carry the equipment to Huascaran BC camp. It’s about a 6 hours hike.
Day 12 – Huascaran BC – Moraine Camp – 4800m
Approximately a 5 hour walk to Huascaran’s moraine camp.
Day 13 – Moraine Camp – Camp 1 – 5500m
4-hour walk (part on crampons) to 5500 metres. From here on we will be on the ice.
Day 14 – Camp 1 – Camp 2 – 6000m
4 to 5 hours of walking/scrambling to the amazing camp 2 which is on the col between the north and south summit of Huascaran.
Day 15 – Summit of Huascaran – 6768m
Expect a 12-hour summit push up and down. Our departure will be very, very early morning. By avoiding crevasses and massive seracs, we’ll gain altitude slowly up to the summit. This might take us about 6 to 8 hours. The descent might take 3 to 4 hours.
Day 16 – Camp 2 – Basecamp – 4200m
Day 17 – Basecamp – Huaraz – 3050m
Day 18 – Huaraz – Lima
You have a free morning in Huaraz and take a night bus to Lima.
Day 19 – Flight back home
** The above itinerary is subject to change due weather conditions, performance of the group, political/administrative problems and any other events not described.
Having good mountaineering equipment is one of the key points to have a successful expedition. Please note all your personal equipment will be checked by one of our guides in the hotel. Most equipment can be purchased or rent in Huaraz.
Buff or similarQuantity: 1 or 2
To protect your face on summit pushQuantity: 1
Woollen hat or similar for cold daysQuantity: 1
UV protection goggles to be used during storms or very cold conditionsQuantity: 1
Sunglasses (cat 3 or 4)
With side protection to fit your faceQuantity: 1
Sunscreen and lip balm
30 FPS or moreQuantity: 1
AA or AAA batteries depending on your headtorch. Can be purchased in local store.Quantity: 1 set
Working headtorch and spare batteriesQuantity: 1
Light down jacket
Summit Down Jacket
Heavy hooded down jacket for cold conditionsQuantity: 1
A good snow, rain and windproof jacketQuantity: 1
Synthetic fibre long or short sleeve t-shirtQuantity: 2 or 3 long sleeve
Used alone or as part of a layer system for better performanceQuantity: 1
Light trekking pantsQuantity: 1 or 2
For snow, sand or scree terrainQuantity: 1 pair
Base layer pants
For very cold days and summit pushQuantity: 1
Goretex or similar pants will be used for high wind or during snow conditionsQuantity: 1
Fleece, polartec or similar. To be used with other layers for very cold conditionsQuantity: 1
A pair of good waterproof gloves for ice climbing with padded knucklesQuantity: 1 pair (OPTIONAL)
Chemical hand warmers for the summit push.Quantity: 1 pack
Thick down mittens for summit pushQuantity: 1 pair
Fleece or polartec gloves for every day useQuantity: 1 pair
Sandals or crocs
Sandals or crocs for river crossing or hanging around campQuantity: OPTIONAL
Waterproof trekking boots, try wearing them before the expeditionQuantity: 1 pair
Good thick trekking socksQuantity: 3 or 4 pairs
Thick expedition socks
For summit dayQuantity: 1 pair
A pair of double or double plastic boots such as Koflach Exped, Koflach Vertical, Asolo Ottomilla, Asolo AFS, Trezetta, Scarpa Vega, Scarpa Inferno, La Sportiva Baruntse, Olympus Mons, La Sportiva Spantik, Scarpa Phantom.
Single layer boots such as La Sportiva Nepal XT, EVO, Batura or Boreal Latok, ARE NOT SUITABLE.Quantity: 1 pair
Technical ice axe or ice toolQuantity: 1 or pair (if you take a pair, then you don't need a piolet)
A light helmet with enough room for your clothingQuantity: 1
Normal non-locking carabinerQuantity: 3
A good light alpine harnessQuantity: 1
A traverse ice axe (piolet). Can be a straight tool or slightly curved.Quantity: 1 (or pair of ice tools instead)
Crampons with antibott systemQuantity: 1 pair
Water purifying tables/drops
A reliable way to treat waterQuantity: 1 (OPTIONAL)
These gels help out on recoveryQuantity: 4
Salty snacks, sweets, etc. Any sort of tasty ready food as complement. On high altitude mountains we don’t normally worry about vitamins and proteins as these kinds of food are too hard to digest. You can buy all these in a local market.Quantity: 2kg
Stuff sacks or bin bags
Helps to keep your stuff dry and organisedQuantity: OPTIONAL
A good down sleepingQuantity: -15C (Comfort temperature)
A decent rucksack with hip belt and rain coverQuantity: 55/45 litres
Our guides already have pretty much any drugs you might need during any trip. However, it would be great if you could have a spare tab of the most used drugs:
Ibuprofen (Advil)– This is an anti-inflammatory and works great for high altitude head aches
Loperamide (Imodium) – controls diarrea (not to be used in case of digestive infections. Ask our guides)
Personal Hygiene kit
Soap, tooth brus, come, etcQuantity: 1
We prefer taking 2 foam sleeping mattress because of sharp rocks. If you have an inflatable mattress you should also bring a foam mattress to protect the inflatable one against sharp rocks. Don’t forget bringing a repair kit if you have an inflatable mattress.Quantity: 2
1 litre thermos
Metallic good quality 1 litre thermos for the summit push. You must have one. Please do not bring smaller ones.Quantity: 1
Nalgene 1 litre bottles or similar are great for expeditions! We prefer to not use camelbacks as its hose pipe might freezeQuantity: 2 x 1 litre or 3 x 600ml
Used to transport or store your equipment. In many cases, we transport your personal gear on animals and we don’t want your equipment to get wet or have mule smell…Quantity: 1
Freeze dried food
Freeze dried or dry food for high campQuantity: 1 pack (OPTIONAL)
To lock your duffel during transportationQuantity: 1
Gives you more stability during walk and summit push.Quantity: 1 or pair
|English - excellent command|
|Spanish - native speaker|
Born Lima, Peru, Julver started mountaineering very young and made climbing his profession. He became a UIAGM guide and now works all over the planet. Julver spends the summer at the Central Andes working in Aconcagua and expedition leader and winter in Arequipa or the Cordillera Blanca leading trips on technical peaks.
An extremely experienced climber, Julver has climbed over 25 x 6000 metre peaks in Peru, Bolivia, Argentina, Ecuador and Chile. He ran Aconcagua from the road to the summit and back in just over 20 hours in 2006. Julver is an extremely easy going person and speaks excellent English.
Expedition cost is U$ 3900, contact us to know payment methods:
What is NOT included:
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