Sajama + Pequeño Alpamayo and Acotango - 16 days

About

Sajama + Pequeño Alpamayo and Acotango - May until September

Sajama is the highest mountain in Bolivia and the fifteenth highest of the Andes 6542 metres high.

Located in the west of the country near the border with Chile, the access to this giant volcano is by an indigenous village with the same name, Villa Sajama. This is a proper Atacama village with very stylish houses and full of llamas. This will be our base for a few days.

Due to the high altitude, however, you have to go through a proper acclimation process. In our expedition this process will be at other smaller mountains. We will start our acclimatisation process at the Condoriri Range, about 50km away from the Bolivian capital, La Paz. With more green and nearby lakes, like the Chiar Khota and Tumi, this will be our home for 3 or 4 nights. We’ll establish a base camp to climb three mountains: Cerro Austria (5440m), Cerro Tarija (5300m) and Pequeño Alpamayo (5370m).

After the acclimatisation at the Condoriri Range, we will drive 260km to Villa Sajama and before facing our main goal, we will once again climb a smaller but not too small peak: Nevado Acotango, 6052 meters above sea level.

Sajama is recommended for those who already have high altitude mountaineering experience and want to increase it. We will be totaling 5 peaks in 16 days!

Itinerary

Sajama + Pequeño Alpamayo and Acotango - 16 days

Day 1 – Arrival to La Paz – Expedition briefing – 3800m

We’ll pick you up at the El Alto Airport and take you to the Hotel Sajama where you’ll meet the guides. Before dinner, we’ll have a short expedition brief regarding all expedition details. Drink plenty water tonight, remember you have just landed at 4100 and will sleep at 3800 metres!

Day 2 – Acclimatisation and Logistic – 3800m

This is our first acclimatisation day in La Paz so take it very easy! The guides will check all your climbing and trekking equipment. We can rent all the necessary equipment at the local stores.

Day 3 – Drive and Trek to Condoriri – 4600m

After a 2 to 4 hour drive to Laguna Tuni at the base of the Condoriri Massif (4450m), we’ll trek for about 2 hours to Laguna Chiarkota, a very beautiful lake where we’ll sleep for the next 2 nights. Each tent is shared by every 2 expedition members.

Day 4 – Climbing Mt Austria/Ilusión – 5350m

After an early breakfast, we’ll try our first peak and return to camp in the afternoon

Day 5 – Rest at Laguna Chiarkota – 4600m

Day 6 – Climbing Pequeño Alpamayo – 5425m

Leaving from BC at about 2am, we’ll head straight to the base of Pequeño Alpamayo and climb it. If you don’t feel strong enough you might want to stop climbing at Mt Tarija, which is a smaller peak just before Pequeño Alpamayo.

Day 7 – Drive and Rest Day at La Paz – 3800m

We need a day doing absolutely nothing!

Day 8 – Drive to Villa Sajama – 4200m

After sorting out rentals and logistic details in the morning we’ll drive to Villa Sajama, 5 hours away from La Paz. Night in a basic hotel.

Day 9 – Climbing Mt Acotango – 6083m

Acotango is a pretty high volcano but is known as the highest 6000m one can drive to: 5650. After a 2 hour drive from Villa Sajama, we’ll reach a large ridge by car and start the 4 hour walk to the summit. We’ll return to the car and drive back to Villa Sajama.

Day 10 – Rest at Villa Sajama – 4200m

Day 11 – Walk to Sajama High Camp – 5650m

Today is one of the hardest days: 6 to 9-hour walk to High Camp at the base of a massive rock tower at nearly 5700m. After having an early dinner, we’ll hit the sleeping bags also pretty early for the big day tomorrow.

Day 12 – Summit attempt – 6538m

After leaving camp at around 1 am – we’ll climb through mixed terrain up to 6100 metres where a long ramp to the summit starts. From here the climb might take 2 to 4 hours. In total, we might climb up and down for about 7 – 9 hours.

Day 13 – Descent to BC and Villa Sajama – 4200m

We’ll break tents in the morning and descent to BC, then also walk for 45 min to the start of the trail where our driver will be waiting. Night at basic hotel.

Day 14 – Drive to La Paz – 3800m

Day 15 – Fly out back home

Day 16 – Spare weather or acclimatisation day

** The above itinerary is subject to change due weather conditions, performance of the group, political/administrative problems and any other events not described.

Equipment

Having good mountaineering equipment is one of the key points to have a successful expedition. Please note all your personal equipment will be checked by one of our guides in the hotel. You can easily rent or purchase all necessary mountaineering equipment in La Paz.

Head
  • equipamento buff

    Bandana

    Buff or similar

    Quantity: 1 or 2 Quantity: 1 or 2
  • equipamento balaclava

    Balaclava

    To protect your face on summit push

    Quantity: 1
  • gorro neblina cinza copia

    Hat

    Woollen hat or similar for cold days

    Quantity: 1
  • xNxgoggles

    Ski goggles

    UV protection goggles to be used during storms or very cold conditions

    Quantity: OPTIONAL
  • xNxExplorer noir vert J

    Sunglasses (cat 3 or 4)

    With side protection to fit your face

    Quantity: 1
  • GG

    Sunscreen and lip balm

    30 FPS or more

    Quantity: 1
  • batteries

    Batteries

    AA or AAA batteries depending on your headtorch. Can be purchased in local store.

    Quantity: 1 set
  • xNxlanterna

    Headtorch

    Working headtorch and spare batteries

    Quantity: 1
Torso
  • Light down jacket

    Quantity: OPTIONAL
  • pluma

    Summit Down Jacket

    Heavy hooded down jacket for cold conditions

    Quantity: 1
  • jaqueta

    Snowproof jacket

    A good snow, rain and windproof jacket

    Quantity: 1
  • camiseta dry

    T-shirt

    Synthetic fibre long or short sleeve t-shirt

    Quantity: 3 or more - long sleeve if possible
  • fleece

    Fleece jacket

    Used alone or as part of a layer system for better performance

    Quantity: 1
Legs
  • Caláa de Trekking

    Trekking pants

    Light trekking pants

    Quantity: 2 or 3
  • Polainas

    Gaiters

    For snow, sand or scree terrain

    Quantity: 1 pair
  • caláa segunda pele

    Base layer pants

    For very cold days and summit push

    Quantity: 1
  • Caláa anorak

    Snowproof pants

    Goretex or similar pants will be used for high wind or during snow conditions

    Quantity: 1
  • pants

    Fleece Pants

    Fleece, polartec or similar. To be used with other layers for very cold conditions

    Quantity: 1
Hands
  • Waterproof gloves

    A pair of good waterproof gloves for ice climbing with padded knuckles

    Quantity: OPTIONAL
  • Screen Shot    at

    Hand warmers

    Chemical hand warmers for the summit push.

    Quantity: 1 pack
  • Miton

    Mittens

    Thick down mittens for summit push

    Quantity: 1 pair
  • Luvas segunda camada

    Gloves

    Fleece or polartec gloves for every day use

    Quantity: 1 pair
Feet
  • crocs

    Sandals or crocs

    Sandals or crocs for river crossing or hanging around camp

    Quantity: OPTIONAL
  • bota

    Trekking boots

    Waterproof trekking boots, try wearing them before the expedition

    Quantity: 1 pair
  • Meias de trekking

    Trekking socks

    Good thick trekking socks

    Quantity: 4 pairs
  • thicksocks

    Thick expedition socks

    For summit day

    Quantity: 1 pair
  • boots

    Double boots

    A pair of double or double plastic boots such as Koflach Exped, Koflach Vertical, Asolo Ottomilla, Asolo AFS, Trezetta, Scarpa Vega, Scarpa Inferno, La Sportiva Baruntse, Olympus Mons, La Sportiva Spantik, Scarpa Phantom.

    Single layer boots such as La Sportiva Nepal XT, EVO, Batura or Boreal Latok, ARE NOT SUITABLE.

    Quantity: 1 pair
Technical equipment
  • curved axe

    Ice tool

    Technical ice axe or ice tool

    Quantity: OPTIONAL
  • screw biner

    Locking carabiner

  • Harness

    A good light alpine harness

    Quantity: 1
  • piolet

    Ice axe

    A traverse ice axe (piolet). Can be a straight tool or slightly curved.

    Quantity: 1
  • crampon

    Crampons

    Crampons with antibott system

    Quantity: 1 pair
Other Equipment
  • tabs

    Water purifying tables/drops

    A reliable way to treat water

    Quantity: OPTIONAL
  • gel

    Carbo gels

    These gels help out on recovery

    Quantity: 10
  • food

    Snacks

    Salty snacks, sweets, etc. Any sort of tasty ready food as complement. On high altitude mountains we don’t normally worry about vitamins and proteins as these kinds of food are too hard to digest. You can buy all these in a local market.

    Quantity: 500gr
  • estanque

    Stuff sacks or bin bags

    Helps to keep your stuff dry and organised

    Quantity: OPTIONAL
  • Saco de dormir

    Sleeping Bag

    A good down sleeping

    Quantity: -15C (Comfort temperature)
  • Rucksack

    A decent rucksack with hip belt and rain cover

    Quantity: 65 litres or more
  • meds

    Altitude medicine

    Our guides already have pretty much any drugs you might need during any trip. However, it would be great if you could have a spare tab of the most used drugs:

    Ibuprofen (Advil)– This is an anti-inflammatory and works great for high altitude head aches
    Loperamide (Imodium) – controls diarrea (not to be used in case of digestive infections. Ask our guides)

    Quantity: kit
  • kit

    Personal Hygiene kit

    Soap, tooth brus, come, etc

    Quantity: 1
  • Isolante tÇrmico

    Sleeping mattress

    We prefer taking 2 foam sleeping mattress because of sharp rocks. If you have an inflatable mattress you should also bring a foam mattress to protect the inflatable one against sharp rocks. Don’t forget bringing a repair kit if you have an inflatable mattress.

    Quantity: 1
  • flask

    1 litre thermos

    Metallic good quality 1 litre thermos for the summit push. You must have one. Please do not bring smaller ones.

    Quantity: 1
  • nalgene

    Water bottle

    Nalgene 1 litre bottles or similar are great for expeditions! We prefer to not use camelbacks as its hose pipe might freeze

    Quantity: 2 x 1 litre or 3 x 600ml
  • duffel

    Duffel Bag

    Used to transport or store your equipment. In many cases, we transport your personal gear on animals and we don’t want your equipment to get wet or have mule smell…

    Quantity: 1
  • cadeado

    Padlock

    To lock your duffel during transportation

    Quantity: OPTIONAL
  • Bast∆o de caminhada

    Trekking poles

    Gives you more stability during walk and summit push.

    Quantity: 1 or pair

FAQ

Do I need visa to travel to Bolivia?

Bolivia requires visa on arrival to americans, south africans and some european countries. There are restrictions to Chinese citizens and to some african countries. Please read this article for more information:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Visa_policy_of_Bolivia

How much equipment will I have to carry? Can I make it?

Your backpack will never weigh more than 15-18 kg. The most weight you will carry will be at Sajama and it won’t exceed 18 kilos.

I still think 18kg is too much. Can I pay a porter to carry my stuff?

Yes, a porter can take at least 20kg but you have to tell us in advance. They charge around U$50 to U$70 for a 20kg load depending on which mountain. They charge the same for the descent.

Do I have to carry tents and stoves?

All group equipment is purchased, carried, cleaned and assembled by our guides and porters, you don’t have to worry about it.

Which hotel will we stay in La Paz? Do I need to book it?

We’ll stay in a 3 star hotel named Hotel Sajama. It is located at the heart of the old centre of La Paz at the busy Illampu street. The area is well known by tourists and has many equipment shops, restaurants and travel agencies. The hotel has free WiFi and hot shower. They serve a very nice breakfast and the hotel has a large conference room which we’ll use for the theoretical classes. The rooms are double, triple or quadruple.

Are there any forms of communication on the mountain?

We take a satellite phone and SPOT devices to update our Blog and Facebook daily. At high camp there might be cell phone coverage that works under roaming for most worldwide networks. Other than that we have VHF radios and we can communicate with our base at any time of the day. We have satellite phone for emergencies.

Would you guys call my family and tell them I’m alright?

Of course! Even better! We have a blog that is updated every day! We normally post messages or photos about the expedition progress. Please visit our Facebook page and check the latest posts.

Do I have to share rooms with someone?

Yes. All the rooms in the huts are shared between up to 4 people. It is a mountain hut, not very luxurious but quite comfortable. Sharing rooms with someone creates an essential partnership to survive and succeed in these hostile environments that are the mountains.

Can I charge batteries or phones on the mountain?

There are no charging facilities on the mountains so you have to take extra batteries.

What if I abandon or quit the expedition?

If you quit the expedition 1 week before departure, it is possible to recover part of your investment. Contact us and find out more.

If you quit the expedition in La Paz, you can continue enjoying the services we provide you such as transportation and hotel. However we can not pay back the money you invested because logistics will already be hired.

If you quit the expedition after we left La Paz, you will have to cover individual transportation and accommodation costs. Everyone who leaves the expedition for personal or health reasons, should pay these costs.

If you give up during the summit attempt, you will never have to go down alone. Usually we coordinate your descent with more expedition members or also with guides from other known expeditions. One of the guides will always be with you.

What’s your philosophy?

We accept women and men of any age, experience or ambition. We ask our members to be patient, respect the leader’s decisions and never go up or down alone.

Remember that you don’t pay us to take you to the summit, you pay mountaineering professionals with several years experience to help you up and down a steep mountain in the safest possible way.

Our itinerary may seem slower than other companies, this is due to a longer acclimatisation plan based on safety. More days will actually improve the chance of reaching the summit!

How much money should I take?

We recommend you to take about U$700 to cover all your expenses. You will spend money on dinners and lunches in La Paz and Villa Sajama, equipment rentals, telephone bills, porters, tips, etc. You might also have extra expenses in case you decide to abandon the mountain. You might need to rent a down sleeping bag which costs U$20 for the whole trip and a down jacket which costs U$15.

Can I take my credit card or traveller cheques?

We do not recommend you to take debit/credit cards to Bolivia as banks can be unreliable. If you had no option but taking a debit/credit card, please know American Express cards do not work in Bolivia.

The best way is to take US dollars, Euro or Sterling pounds. These can be easily exchanged into local currency as there are several exchange offices in La Paz. Some cards are accepted in large stores. However do not forget to tell your bank that you will be traveling to another country so your card is not blocked. Prepaid cards might work in some ATMs in La Paz.

What is the experience I need to participate?

Although we don’t require experience on high altitude mountains, it would be ideal you have previous experiences on high altitude peaks. To climb Sajama we recommend you to have at least, experience on multi-day treks so you’re already familiar with camping techniques and the use of hiking backpacks, etc.

What is the training I need for big mountains like this one?

To mountains over 6000m, we recommend you start training at least 3 months before departure. Of course this depends upon your physical condition. Aerobic exercises like running and cycling are great. Ideally ask a professional to recommend you a good aerobic training program. Mountain hiking with a backpack is also a very efficient exercise.

It that true that I need yellow fever vaccination to go to Bolivia?

Theoretically yes, but in the last four years the authorities did not ask our students for proof of vaccination. Bolivia is one of the countries that require yellow fever vaccine to travelers transiting Chaco Boreal, so if you come by land, you will need one. Check your vaccination card if you have already taken the vaccine in the past. It is valid for 10 years. You will need an international vaccination card. If you do actually take the vaccine, we recommend you take it at least 1 week before the trip as your body might react to it.

How is the weather in Sajama?

Expect dry cold days and freezing nights. Also, west wind usually starts just before noon and goes on for the whole afternoon. If there are storms, they usually come in the afternoon, after 1 or 2 pm.

Is there drinking water at Sajama?

Apart from a few exceptions, there are 2 water streams at Sajama. We have to take most of the water with us. There is no water at high camp unless is very warm.

How much do I need to give tips?

Tips are voluntary and very welcome. They are not mandatory. However if you tip someone, that means you are very pleased with their job. If everyone agrees, what we usually do after the expedition is to have a ‘pool’ with everyone’s contributions. We then share it equally among local staff.

What if I have a health problem?

Our leader and guides have extensive experience in mountain medicine and will solve most of the health problems you might have. We have an massive medical kit and can handle most of gastrointestinal disorders, altitude diseases, allergies and traumas.

Moreover, even the local Bolivian guides are very well trained in this type of problems. In Bolivia there is a certification called UIAGM and almost all guides already have it or are on the way to have one. UIAGM guides are normally trained on WFR protocol.

What if I need a rescue?

All guides in Bolivia are trained in rescues and first aid in remote areas. Our guides are required to have a valid WFR certification.

Do you recommend the use of Diamox?

NOT for the Andes. In extreme altitudes like the Himalayas or Karakorum we do recommend using Acetilzolamide or Diamox. This drug seems to actually work during the acclimatisation period by increasing the breathing rate at night (reduces CO2 levels), and also is a diuretic which eliminates sodium out of your system. In the Andes mountains however, mountains are too dry and taking diuretics such as Diamox actually decrease your acclimatisation capacity.

I was climbing in Peru before and I had a hard time communicating to my guide. Do your guides speak any english?

Yes, our leaders speak fluent english. Please check our team’s information and find out about our guides’ communication skills.

What’s the temperature my sleeping bag should stand?

We recommend you to bring good down sleeping bags with comfort temperature of -15ºC. Please note there are 2 types of temperatures shown in most of sleeping bags. We’re focusing on the “comfort temperature”. You can rent a sleeping bag for U$20 in La Paz.

 

What if I have a special diet?

Please tell us in advance about any food issues you might have and also please remind our guides about it too. Unless you bring your own food, we cannot help you if you are macro-biotic, vegan or celiac due to extreme logistical difficulties. Contact us and let us know about your food restriction.

View our photos of Pedro Hauck:
Related links about Pedro Hauck:

Pedro Hauck

Expedition leader and rock climbing instructor

Pedro is sponsored by the following brands:

thulehard

Language skills:

Portuguese - native speaker
English - excellent command
Spanish -  near native speaker

Pedro Hauck is a geographer, has masters in Physical Geography, Ph.D. in geology and is a very experienced mountaineer for the last 17 years. He has taught several rock climbing courses as well as climbing customized courses, teaching hundreds of people on how to climb.

Pedro is now one of the most experienced climbers in South America. At the Andes alone, Pedro has climbed 39 x 6000 metre peaks! As expedition leader, Pedro has led several expeditions bringing safety and a lot of useful information to our clients. Pedro is extremely easy going and loves to teach! He is the kind of guy who is very happy on teaching anyone about geology and geography. So during our expeditions, make sure you DON’T ask him about geology, otherwise, you might have to listen to a 2-day class.

On his spare time, Pedro Hauck runs the largest news website in Brazil (http://AltaMontanha.com) and wrote many useful articles about dozens of mountaineering topics.

Voluntarily participated in the organization of Brazilian mountaineering and has served as director of the Brazilian Mountaineering Confederation. For 6 years, he fought against access prohibitions in several Brazilian climbing areas.

In September 2014 Pedro has climbed all the 14 Bolivian 6000 metre peaks in 4 weeks! Pedro completed the project without any support or assistance. Currently, Pedro has reached the top of 36 x 6000 metre summits as well as other 55 high altitude climbs.

A very experienced rock climber, Pedro has extensive knowledge in bouldering, sports climbing, trad and aid climbing. He has been to at least 80 rock climbing areas in South America.

Awards

Golden Carabiner 2015 - Brazil: For his '6000+ Bolivian Andes' project, Maximo Kausch and Pedro Hauck were chosen to receive the mountaineering Golden Carabiner of 2015. This prize is given to the most accomplished climbs or projects of the year.

Mount Everest Foundation 2015: Mount Everest Foundation UK, has chosen Max's exploring project and decided to finance part of it in May 2015. The prize is given to the more significant exploring projects worldwide.

More about Pedro Hauck

Facebook athlete page

Instagram Page

Personal Website

Mountaineering CV

Map

Cost

Expedition cost is U$ 2700, contact us to know payment methods:

What’s included:

  • Leadership of Pedro Hauck, has 39 ascents to 6000 metre peaks;
  • 1 assistant guide (UIAGM or UIAGM aspirant) for every 2 or 3 students;
  • cooks and porters for group equipment (not personal equipment);
  • Taxes and climbing fees;
  • Transport to/from airport;
  • Transport to/from Villa Sajama;
  • Transport to/from Acotango;
  • 4 hotel nights in a 3 star hotel (Hotel Sajama, La Paz) with breakfast included – rooms are shared;
  • 3 nights in basic accommodation hostel at Villa Sajama;
  • Tent at Sajama and Condoriri Range (tents are shared);
  • All meals outside La Paz (details on itinerary);
  • Use of ropes and snow/ice anchors;
  • Use of first aid kit;
  • Water from snow melting on all mountains;
  • Assistance for renting/buying equipment in La Paz;

What is NOT included:

  • Flights from/to La Paz;
  • Immigration tax or visas (if any);
  • Personal equipment (read the equipment tab);
  • Money return in case you abandon the expedition;
  • International travel insurance;
  • Lunch and dinner in La Paz and Villa Sajama;
  • Extra nights at Sajama Hotel (we include 5);
  • Single room in case you don’t want to share;
  • Tips (if you believe our staff deserves it)
  • Reimbursement for loss or damage of your personal equipment

Welcome to Andes Specialists!

Subscribe to our newsletter and stay updated on our expeditions!