Unclimbed 5000 metre peaks - 15 days

About

Unclimbed 5000 metre peaks - 24/03/2018 - 07/04/2018

This is the result of a 4-year research conducted by our expedition leader Maximo Kausch and the British Ph.D. in physics Dr Suzie Imber. It all started with Maximo researching on 6000 metre independent peaks. It took him 3 years to establish a final list of Andean 6000 metre peaks (total of 104).

After deciding to actually climb them all, he noticed many unknown 5000 metre peaks in the surrounding areas. With the aid of Suzie Imber, the designed a computer routine capable of finding elevations with specific features and finally establishing a final list of all absolute 5000-metre peaks in the Andes: the total of 1174. The rule used was the percentage of ‘dominance‘, created by the German researcher Ebehard Jurgalski. Dominance is basically a relation between the high of a peak and a minimum necessary prominence to make the same peak ‘independent’ of other in a landscape:

% Dominance = ( Prominence / Peak altitude ) x 100

Anything above 7% we consider an independent or absolute peak. There are 104 x 6000-metre peaks in the Andes and 1174 above 5000 and below 6000. Once they had all positions, heights and dominance results of all 65,000 significant elevations in the Andes, it was time to work on the names. This job took a very long time and even involved interviewing climbers and investigating data from geographical military institutes. Most of the unclimbed peaks in the Andes don’t have names. Although there are some unclimbed peaks which are named, our focus is on the unnamed ones. The opposite might happen, however, is very uncommon.

Currently there are between 40 and 60 unclimbed independent 5000 metre peaks in the Andes. We have selected a region with a higher concentration of these and will explore it again in late March 2018. This will be our third exploring expedition in the area. During our previous explorations we have climbed 5 of these, including the ex-highest unclimbed peak in the Andes, Mt Parofes 5845 metres high.

5000 metre peak list:

Incan Ruins: 

Although these peaks might be unclimbed by modern civilisation, there is a big chance we might find signs of previous Incan explorations. Usually these signs are found at the top of mountains as 10 x 5 metre platforms or 1 metre tall rock cairns. These are some samples of previously found ruins:

Requirements to join this trip are:

  • International Travel Insurance;
  • Altitude climbing experience;
  • Be healthy and fit enough;
  • Be open and flexible to all challenges we might find (and overcome);
  • Fill the booking and medical form;
  • Read all the information available on this website.

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Itinerary

Unclimbed 5000 metre peaks - 15 days

Set date 2018: 05/03/2018 until 14/03/2018

Day 1 – Arrival to Copiapo – 800m

We’ll pick you up at the airport, 50km away from Copiapo. In the same day we will check your personal equipment, making all final adjustments and shopping if necessary. Today we’ll have our first dinner together and meet the rest of the team. Included: transport and hotel

Day 2 – Copiapo – Laguna Santa Rosa Hut – 3700m

After a 210km drive, we’ll sleep in a small mountain hut at the edge of a beautiful salty lagoon called Santa Rosa. Included: Breakfast, transport, lunch, and dinner

Day 3 – Climbing Siete Hermanos – 4780m

We’ll climb Siete Hermanos up to its summit or go as high as we can depending on the team’s condition. This is a fairly ‘low’ 4780m peak near Laguna Santa Rosa. Included: Breakfast, lunch, and dinner

Day 4 – Laguna Santa Rosa Hut – Laguna Brava – 4250m

After a nice and generous breakfast, we’ll drive to Maricunga, register at Chilean police, then head to Laguna Brava. Expect up to 6 hours of extreme, unimaginable offroad driving up to Laguna Brava. There are vehicle tracks (we were probably the last ones there) but don’t expect roads. Included: Breakfast, packed lunch, dinner, 4WD vehicle.

Days 5 to 13 – Laguna Brava – God Knows…

This is when the fun starts. We just don’t know what will happen today. Expect anything! We have selected 5 unclimbed 5000- metre peaks in the Area. Approach, climbing, and routes will depend on the group’s performance, weather, conditions, terrain, etc. Included: 4WD approaches, tents, 2 meals/day, tons of fun!

Day 14 – Drive back to Copiapo

Included: transport and hotel

Day 15 – Flight back home

** The above itinerary is subject to change due weather conditions, performance of the group, political/administrative problems and any other events not described.

Equipment

Having good mountaineering equipment is one of the key points to have a successful expedition. Please note all your personal equipment will be checked by one of our guides in the hotel. There are no rental shops in Copiapo or Santiago. If your intention is to rent mountaineering equipment, no problem, we can rent it for you in Mendoza but we need to know all your sizes in advanced. Find out rental prices in our FAQ.

Head
  • bone

    Hat or cap

    For sun protection

    Quantity: 1
  • equipamento buff

    Bandana

    Buff or similar

    Quantity: 1 or 2
  • gorro neblina cinza copia

    Hat

    Woollen hat or similar for cold days

    Quantity: 1
  • xNxExplorer noir vert J

    Sunglasses (cat 3 or 4)

    With side protection to fit your face

    Quantity: 1
  • GG

    Sunscreen and lip balm

    30 FPS or more

    Quantity: 1
  • xNxlanterna

    Headtorch

    Working headtorch and spare batteries

    Quantity: 1
Torso
  • Light down jacket

    Quantity: OPTIONAL
  • pluma

    Summit Down Jacket

    Heavy hooded down jacket for cold conditions

    Quantity: OPTIONAL
  • jaqueta

    Snowproof jacket

    A good snow, rain and windproof jacket

    Quantity: 1
  • camiseta dry

    T-shirt

    Synthetic fibre long or short sleeve t-shirt

    Quantity: 2 long sleeve
  • fleece

    Fleece jacket

    Used alone or as part of a layer system for better performance

    Quantity: 1
Legs
  • Caláa de Trekking

    Trekking pants

    Light trekking pants

    Quantity: 1 o2 2 pairs
  • Polainas

    Gaiters

    For snow, sand or scree terrain

    Quantity: 1 pair
  • caláa segunda pele

    Base layer pants

    For very cold days and summit push

    Quantity: 1
  • Caláa anorak

    Snowproof pants

    Goretex or similar pants will be used for high wind or during snow conditions

    Quantity: 1
  • pants

    Fleece Pants

    Fleece, polartec or similar. To be used with other layers for very cold conditions

    Quantity: 1
Hands
  • Miton

    Mittens

    Thick down mittens for summit push

    Quantity: OPTIONAL
  • Luvas segunda camada

    Gloves

    Fleece or polartec gloves for every day use

    Quantity: 1 pair
Feet
  • boot

    Single layer boots

    Any single layer boot such as Nepal Extreme, Latok, Batura, pro Thermic Salomon, Super Mountain 9 Salomon, etc

    Quantity: 1 pair
  • crocs

    Sandals or crocs

    Sandals or crocs for river crossing or hanging around camp

    Quantity: 1 pair
  • bota

    Trekking boots

    Waterproof trekking boots, try wearing them before the expedition

    Quantity: 1 pair
  • Meias de trekking

    Trekking socks

    Good thick trekking socks

    Quantity: 5 pairs
Technical equipment
  • piolet

    Ice axe

    A traverse ice axe (piolet). Can be a straight tool or slightly curved.

    Quantity: 1
  • crampon

    Crampons

    Crampons with antibott system

    Quantity: 1 pair
Other Equipment
  • matt

    Inflatable matress

    An inflatable mattress and its repair kit

    Quantity: OPTIONAL
  • gel

    Carbo gels

    These gels help out on recovery

    Quantity: 4
  • Saco de dormir

    Sleeping Bag

    A good down sleeping

    Quantity: -15C (Comfort temperature)
  • Rucksack

    A decent rucksack with hip belt and rain cover

    Quantity: 50 litres or larger
  • meds

    Altitude medicine

    Our guides already have pretty much any drugs you might need during any trip. However, it would be great if you could have a spare tab of the most used drugs:

    Ibuprofen (Advil)– This is an anti-inflammatory and works great for high altitude head aches
    Loperamide (Imodium) – controls diarrea (not to be used in case of digestive infections. Ask our guides)

    Quantity: kit
  • kit

    Personal Hygiene kit

    Soap, tooth brus, come, etc

    Quantity: kit
  • Isolante tÇrmico

    Sleeping mattress

    We prefer taking 2 foam sleeping mattress because of sharp rocks. If you have an inflatable mattress you should also bring a foam mattress to protect the inflatable one against sharp rocks. Don’t forget bringing a repair kit if you have an inflatable mattress.

    Quantity: 2
  • flask

    1 litre thermos

    Metallic good quality 1 litre thermos for the summit push. You must have one. Please do not bring smaller ones.

    Quantity: 1
  • nalgene

    Water bottle

    Nalgene 1 litre bottles or similar are great for expeditions! We prefer to not use camelbacks as its hose pipe might freeze

    Quantity: 2 x 1 litre
  • duffel

    Duffel Bag

    Used to transport or store your equipment. In many cases, we transport your personal gear on animals and we don’t want your equipment to get wet or have mule smell…

    Quantity: 1
  • Bast∆o de caminhada

    Trekking poles

    Gives you more stability during walk and summit push.

    Quantity: 1 or pair

FAQ

How many peaks will we climb?

This will depend on approaches, weather conditions, etc. But we will hardly climb more than 2 peaks.

What if we get to the top and we find out they aren’t unclimbed?

There is no way to be 100% sure they are unclimbed, this is the beauty of it. We have to get to the top in order to find out. The peaks we chose are very likely unclimbed.

Where should I fly to?

The best way to get to Copiapo is to fly to Santiago (usually via LAN Chile) then take a secondary flight (usually via Sky Airlines) to Copiapo. The second flight can be very cheap. Also, search for flights from your home country to Copiapo. LAN does the connection and it might be cheaper sometimes.

What are the huts like?

Laguna Santa Rosa has a very nice hut run by a local agency who keeps it clean. It has a toilet and beds. This is where we’ll acclimatise.

Can I rent equipment in Copiapo or Santiago?

No, you can’t. However, we can rent it for you in Mendoza and bring it to you in Copiapo. If your intention is to rent any equipment, please let us know as soon as possible. If you need rental boots, no problem, we need you to draw the contour of your foot on a blank A4 sheet of paper, scan it and then email it to us.

Can I exchange money in Copiapo?

Yes. There are exchange offices that buy US dollars, sterling and euro in Copiapo. Best rates are in US dollars.

There is communication on the mountain?

Yes! At any time you can use our satellite phone. The calls cost U$3/minute. Throughout the expedition we will post daily updates to our Facebook page via SPOT satellite.

Would you guys call my family and tell them I’m alright?

Of course! Even better! We have a blog that is updated every day! We normally post messages or photos about the expedition progress. Please visit our Facebook page and check the latest posts.

Can I charge my iPhone battery or my camera?

Yes! We have solar panels to charge batteries, iPods, etc. Of course this changes when there’s not enough sunlight. Car 12V DC plugs are also an options while our vehicles are on the move.

What if I abandon or quit the expedition?

If you quit the expedition 1 week before departure, it is possible to recover part of your investment. Contact us and find out more.

If you quit the expedition in Copiapo, you can continue enjoying the services we provide you such as transportation and hotel. However we can not pay back the money you invested because logistics will already be hired.

If you quit the expedition after we left Copiapo, you will have to cover individual transportation and accommodation costs. Everyone who leaves the expedition for personal or health reasons, should pay these costs.

If you give up during the summit attempt, you will never have to go down alone. Usually we coordinate your descent with more expedition members. One of the guides will always be with you.

To leave San Francisco, one of our vehicles will have to travel 600km to make a roundtrip to Copiapo. Fuel, maintenance and guide’s expenditure must be covered in case you wish to return home.

Can pay for rental equipment with a credit card?

No, this must be paid in US dollars to our guides.

How much does the climbing permit costs?

There is a required permission to climb San Francisco called DIFROL. This has no cost and is carried by the expedition leader.

What if I have a special diet?

Please tell us in advance about any food issues you might have and also please remind our guides about it too. Unless you bring your own food, we cannot help you if you are macro-biotic, vegan or celiac due to extreme logistical difficulties. Contact us and let us know about your food restriction.

What if I have a health problem?

Our leader Maximo Kausch has extensive experience in mountain medicine and can solve most of problems you might encounter.

What if I need a rescue?

All our guides are trained rescuers and experienced in rescues on big mountains. Rescues can be made with one of our 4WD vehicles, this way you can get to a hospital in a few hours.

Do you recommend the use of Diamox?

NOT for the Central Andes. In extreme altitudes like the Himalayas or Karakorum we do recommend using Acetilzolamide or Diamox. This drug seems to actually work during the acclimatisation period by increasing the breathing rate at night (reduces CO2 levels), and also is a diuretic which eliminates sodium out of your system. In the Andes mountains however, mountains are too dry and taking diuretics such as Diamox actually decrease your acclimatisation capacity.

I was climbing in Peru before and I had a hard time communicating to my guide. Do your guides speak any english?

Yes, our leader Maximo Kausch has lived in the UK for 10 years and speaks fluent english. Please check our team’s information and find out about our guides’ communication skills.

What’s the temperature my sleeping bag should stand?

We recommend you to bring good down sleeping bags with comfort temperature of -10 up to -15. Please note there are 2 types of temperatures shown in most of sleeping bags. We’re focusing on the “comfort temperature”.

View our photos of Maximo Kausch:
Related links about Maximo Kausch:

Maximo Kausch

Founder and expedition leader

Maximo is sponsored by the following brands:

logos

Language skills:

English - native speaker
Spanish - native speaker
Portuguese - native speaker

Maximo Kausch is one of the most accomplished climbers in the world. By 2015 he has reached the summit of 70 x 6000 metre peaks and climbed over 100 more worldwide. As expedition leader, Maximo has led several expeditions for the American owned company SummitClimb.com.

He was born in Argentina, raised in Brazil and lived over 10 years in the UK. Max is a full-time climber and guide. He literally spends most of his time in the mountains, mainly at the Andes and Himalaya. During his expeditions, Maximo has climbed some of the most remote mountains in the planet and visited at least 25 countries.

Max is a very calm person and focuses on safety and good acclimatisation plans during his expeditions. He is a trained rescuer and has extensive knowledge in high altitude medicine and medical emergencies. On his spare time, Maximo likes rock and mixed climbing in remote mountains.

In 2012 he started an unprecedented project alone and climbed 30 mountains over 6000 meters all alone. His project in now recognized as one of the main exploring projects in the Andes. Max wants to climb all 6000 metres peaks in the Andes by 2017. He publishes all his GPS climbing routes for free so others can climb remote peaks as well.

Maximo has been to at least 11 x 8000-metre expedition at the Himalayas and has plenty extreme logistic experience. Over the years he has helped hundreds of clients to reach the summit of various mountains.

Awards

World Record: Maximo has recently become the record holder of the most number of 6000 metre peaks. He has been to at least 170 high altitude mountains over his 19 years of climbing experience.

Golden Carabiner 2015 - Brazil: For his '6000+ Bolivian Andes' project, Maximo Kausch and Pedro Hauck were chosen to receive the mountaineering Golden Carabiner of 2015. This prize is given to the most accomplished climbs or projects of the year.

Outsider 2013: Maximo was chosen by Outside Magazine as the 'Outsider of the year' in 2013 for his 30 x 6000 metre mountains climbed in a single push late 2012.

Mount Everest Foundation 2015: Mount Everest Foundation UK, has chosen Max's exploring project and decided to finance part of it in May 2015. The prize is given to the more significant exploring projects worldwide.

More about Maximo Kausch

Wikipedia profile

Max's World Record

Facebook Athlete FanPage 

Instagram Page

Some of his Wikiloc routes

Map

Cost

Expedition cost is U$ 2150, contact us to know payment methods:

What’s included:

  • Leadership of Maximo Kausch, world record holder on number of 6000 metre peaks;
  • 1 or 2 assistant mountain guides (EPGAMT/AAGM certification) depending upon number or clients (client per guide ratio = 2/3);
  • Collect and return of rentals in Mendoza (if necessary);
  • Transport from/to airport;
  • 2 nights in a 3-star hotel in Copiapo – the rooms are shared by each two expedition members;
  • 4Wd private transport;
  • Use mountain huts;
  • Use of tents;
  • Use of medical kit and medical oxygen;
  • Stoves and gas in all altitude camps;
  • All meals outside Copiapo;
  • Bureaucratic permissions (if necessary);

What is NOT included:

  • Flights from/to Copiapo;
  • Personal climbing equipment (check equipment tab);
  • Money return in case you abandon the expedition;
  • International travel insurance;
  • Lunch and dinner in Copiapo;
  • Reimbursement for loss or damage of your personal equipment.

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